April 24 - Day 11

Day 11 - Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada - 21 km

Since we were well prepared today we had a quick breakfast and packed up our lunch for the road. We were on our way by about 7:00. Another overcast and foggy morning, but misleading as it was warm and humid. So we doffed our jackets pretty quick (also the giant hill going out of town warmed us up).

Almost to the first town we met up with a Camino dog and her owner, Mark. Mark had left his home near Barcelona about a month ago. Along the way he adopted Lola. He was already camping most nights, carrying a tent, so that worked out (most Albergues don’t allow dogs). She is a lovely pup, very friendly, and is great conversation starter. Mark was also interesting. He recently ran his first marathon, so we chatted about runs and walks for a bit. There is a night walk near Barcelona where you walk up Montserrat, reaching the top at sunrise. Sounds nice.

We stopped at Azofra for a cafe con leche, then back on the road. Mostly vineyards again, some canola fields also. And more hills! Rachel’s feet were hurting most of the day. Not blisters, we are considering plantar fasciitis, hopefully not and hopefully it improves with rest.

One town we walked through was a bit strange. Ciruena has a nice looking golf course and country club, plus lots of modern townhouses, but they mostly seem abandoned. Like a modern ghost town. Weird. Then you finally get to the old part of town and there is an albergue but not much else.

We arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada about 12:45, lots of room for all (200+ beds). Lovely renovated albergue. Mark was allowed to sleep inside but Lola spent the night in the courtyard. Shower, laundry, snack, and short walk about in the area. Most albergues are located near cathedrals and historic parts of town. So it’s pretty nice to walk the area. And good for the legs too, to have a more leisurely walk after ditching the backpack.

We only went about 2 blocks though, before we got to a more modern street with newer restaurants and shops and a bank machine.

Rachel bought a gel insert for her sore feet, hopefully that will help. And there is an option to have our pack sent ahead by van, thinking about that.

We had a nice dinner with a few new friends, vino of course was included, and we found ice cream after.

Back to the albergue, we took in our laundry hanging on the line, said good night to Lola the dog, got ready for bed. Santo Domingo is famous for it's chickens. There is an interesting story (legend) about a family who were on a pilgrimage to Santiago, and were staying with a farmer's family in Santo Domingo. The farmer's daughter tried to have her way with the son, but he refused. She wasn't happy about that, so hid some silverware in his pack and accused him of theft. He was hanged for his crime and his parents went on their way. On the trip home he was still hanging, and alive! So they went to the local lawman, saying he must be innocent. The magistrate said "Why, he is no more alive than this roasted chicken on my plate." Well, the chicken got up, brought back to life with feathers and all - and crowed.* So chickens are revered here. There are chickens in the albergue yard, and even in the cathedral. And all the shops sell chicken memorabilia (chocolates, ornaments, etc.)