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  • Writer's pictureArlene

May 16 - Day 33

Updated: Jul 22, 2018

Day 33 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei - 25 km


Yesterday we made a mistake. Our pension had no laundry facilities. We could have gone to the albergue they are affiliated with and used the washer and dryer there for 4€ each, or hand wash there free and I guess hang it up there. We didn’t want to do that so we washed here anyway, in the bathroom sink (don’t tell on us). The problem is that there is nowhere to hang it and the heat in the room is not functioning. So we had a lot of wet clothes, very few dry clean clothes. And we had to carry them 25 km. So some went into a plastic bag and I hung my towel and a couple of socks on the backpack, hoping for the best. (Backpack laundry lines are a fairly common sight on the Camino).


And off we went. It was a long day so we tried to get an early start. Just before 7:00 we were ready. Seems like whatever we do we are ready somewhere around 7:00. I guess it’s our time to leave.


The first rest stop was in Gonzar, 8 km from Portomarin. So of course everyone stopped there. That was okay. So did we. The one bar was very efficient, and we got our breakfast pretty fast. We opted for sausage and eggs with fries. (Lots of pilgrim food comes with fries, it’s easy). Big plate, we shared. Also I am feeling better so am back to cafe con leche, which I took a break from while I had a queasy tummy.


We also saw Penny, Kathy and Elaine at our stop, they are just a smidge ahead of us but we should all arrive on Santiago on the same day.


Back on the trail. Noticeably busier than prior to Sarria, almost everyone probably stayed in Portomarin. Oh well, I guess we have to deal with it.


The trail again was hilly, mostly up, through lush green forests and farms, except for one stretch through a burned out patch of trees. Kind of sad.



We had a lunch break at Portos, had a really good tortilla Espanol. Haven’t had one for a bit. And coke. I never have coke at home but it’s a good energy boost on a long hike.


Eventually, around 2:00, we got in to our albergue for the night, Zendoira, in Palas de Rei. We haven’t actually stayed in an albergue for a while. Once I started using booking.com, more options show for cheap beds in private rooms. But this place is different. The bunk beds are pods, units with a shelf and a curtain, your own light and two charger plus! Sweet! And it’s my turn for the lower bunk, even sweeter.


Zendoira albergue, with pods!

My towel and socks did dry out, so after our showers we got in line for the washing machine. This will probably be the last time we do a load of laundry until we are finished. Will just do by hand as needed.


Then after a little rest and a beer, went to check out the area, and have supper. We had a wonderful pilgrim meal with a salad full of nuts and berries, and a chicken and rice dish that was delicious. And vino of course.


Today’s lesson: in a pinch you can hang wet laundry from your backpack, and on a decent day it might get dry. But use safety pins, not clothes pins, you don’t want to lose them. I knew this in advance, but it was clear that some people had to learn by experience.


Cafe con leche and half of breakfast plate 4€

Coke and half of tortilla 3.50€

Albergue 10€

Laundry 7€

Beer 1.50€

Hair conditioner 1€

Supper 10€

Food for breakfast 4€

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