Day 26 - El Ganso to El Acebo - 24 km
Today may be my favourite day so far. Amazing scenery, feeling strong on the hills, reaching another milestone - the highest point on the Camino.
We sent our bags ahead again since we have a long and steep trail today. Good choice. It made the day wonderful.
We got up early today since it would be a long walk. On the road by 6:45, I think we are pretty organized in the morning.
We stopped for coffee at the first town, nice gradual ascent so far. Along the way we saw a spot where people put crosses made of sticks in the wire fence, we had seen similar before. This time we added our own cross, using sticks found on the trail.
As we approached the next town it got increasingly foggy. And the path was a lot steeper as well. We felt really good though. Partly because we only had our light day packs but partly because we are getting stronger.
Because Foncebadón was the only town for a long time, we decided we should eat something a bit more substantial than a croissant. So we had a sandwich (our first lunch, about 10:30).
After fortification with bread and protein, we tackled the rest of the hill to Cruz Ferro. By now the fog had lifted and we had fabulous views of the countryside. Spectacular - they kept getting better all day!
Cruz Ferro, or iron cross, is a famous Camino landmark. Pilgrims leave a stone here to represent their burdens or sins; and when you leave it behind your burdens are lifted. I’m not sure about that, but I did leave a rock and I did feel light today (all day, not just after Cruz Ferro). And Rachel and I had bought rocks from home but weren’t ready to part with them yet (we want to throw them in the ocean after our walk). So we picked up rocks this morning to use.
After Cruz Ferro, there was some up and down, then a bit more up and we passed the highest point (1520 m elevation). Didn’t see any signs to indicate it but we started going down so it must have happened.
All day today we kept seeing one guy walking, he would pass us, then stop for a bit, then pass us again. Eventually we chatted a while. He’s from Belgium and has done the Portugese Camino, is now doing Camino Frances, and will do the Norte route next. Wow! He told us that it was customary to buy a beer for someone if you keep running into them. Maybe later.
The downhill was very steep, with some loose rocks. Not too bad, but caution was indicated.
When we reached El Acebo we ran into Charmaine and Teresa, who are a couple towns ahead of us. They had just stopped for a rest. Not sure if we will see them again anytime soon.
After we checked in, showered, washed clothes, etc - we went for another lunch. By then we were hungry and supper still a ways off.
You may notice some patterns. We eat quite frequently. Kind of like hobbits: first breakfast, second breakfast, elevensies, first lunch, second lunch, etc.
Rest time until dinner, then took advantage of the pilgrim menu at the albergue. Never did see that Belgian.
I hope we can sleep tonight. There is a guy in our dorm with a wicked cough.
Today’s lesson: if you see a Belgian 3 times, you owe him a beer (or does he owe you one?)
Bag transfer 6€
Cafe con leche and croissant 2.20€
First lunch 5.60€
Albergue 7€
Second lunch 7€
Dinner 10€
